DEDICATED TO EVERYONE WHO LOVES A PENCIL
MR. WEBSTER DEFINES DRAWING AS DELINEATION. THAT DOESN’T TELL YOU HOW MUCH OF A REAL “BANG” THERE IS IN IT. MAYBE HE NEVER KNEW. MOST FOLKS LOVE TO DRAW EVEN WHEN THEY KNOW LITTLE ABOUT IT. IT STARTED WITH THE CAVE MAN, AND STILL SURVIVES ON THE WALLS OF PUBLIC PLACES... BECAUSE IT’S SO MUCH FUN, AND SO EASY, IT’S A SHAME NOT TO BE ABLE TO DO IT BETTER.
ALL THAT YOU NEED TO KNOW, TO START THIS BOOK, IS HOW TO DRAW A CIRCLE. . . . And it can be as lopsided as the family budget, and still work out. Don’t start out with that old gag, “I couldn’t draw a straight line.” Neither can I, freehand. If we need a straight line, we can use a ruler. Now please try it, just for fun.
Who am I? Oh, just one of Andy’s little funny folk. But I’m important! He gave me a job. I’m the spirit of the book, by jeeminy, big nose and all. I represent all the blue in here. My right name would be Basic Form, but that’s much too high-sounding. He thinks that name would scare you away. So he just calls me "Professor Blook’’ and lets it go at that. Now, I’ve got a few interesting things to tell you.
Since Andy cannot talk to you personally, he put me in here so we can really get together. It’s tough on Andy, for that guy really loves to talk, especially "shop talk.’’ Now this plan of action is based on the use of simple forms that are already known and familiar to you, and which you can certainly draw. From these simple, known forms, we build other forms, which without some constructive plan would be too complicated to draw. For instance, the top of the head, or cranium, is nearer to a ball in shape than anything else. So we start with a bull, and add to it the shapes we want. We thus "arrive’’ at the out-lines that are needed instead of guessing at them. Only the most talented end experienced artist can draw at once the final outlines. That procedure is most difficult, and is the reason most people give up drawing.
But knowing how to "construct’’ makes drawing simple and easy, and a delightful pastime to anybody. By building preliminary shapes and developing the outlines on them, we know WHERE TO DRAW OUR REAL LINES. There is hardly anything that cannot first be constructed by the use of simple forms. “Santa had a belly, like a bowl full of jelly.’’ Now that was a real observation. We know just whet it must hove looked like. In fact we can see it shaking! Now, the idea is to draw the bowl before the belly. If the observation is correct, it ought to be a simple matter to make it fairly convincing as an abdomen for old Nick. Of course we will cover it with his coat and pants, but we’ll be pretty sure the pants don’t spoil the big idea. I picked on Santa because he’ll never complain that I’m being too personal over his appearance. I might just as well have chosen your next-door neighbor, his lunch basket may be equally rotund, and shake some too. Every form is like some simpler form, with this or that variation, and with pieces added on.
Forms we know are the sphere, the cube, and the egg. Before we could walk we recognized the sphere in Dad’s new golf bulls; the cubes were in the sugar bowl; as for the eggs, well, the nicest ones were Easter eggs. I say, “Draw a line.’’ You cannot know just what I mean. A straight line? A curved line? A jagged line? A wiggly line? There are a thousand kinds of lines; be more specific. But it I say draw a ball, a cube, an egg, a cylinder, a pyramid, a cone, a rectangular block, in each case the image you get is perfect. You know exactly what I mean. Instead of “line,’’ we shall think in terms of concrete and tangible “form,’’ and proceed as if we were handling lumps of clay. You can appreciate the value of such a method, for you know the fundamentals even before you start; they are obvious to anybody. If you never saw a ball, you should quit right now.
As you proceed to build all sorts of shapes out of simpler ones, it is amazing what you can do with them, and how accurate and "solid’’ the resulting drawings will appear. The surprising part is that, when the construction lines are erased, very few could guess how it had been done. Your drawing appears us complicated and difficult to the other fellow as mine might seem to you now. It takes on a look of professional workmanship, which indeed it has, since the professional artist has by some method had to “construct’’ his work to make it “professional.’’
If you will give the following pages even your amused attention, I am satisfied you will find much that will surprise you in the way of ability but perhaps you heretofore never guessed you had. If it absorbs your interest, you might find yourself clever enough to amaze those about you. Just now take my word for it that the method is simple, practical, and, I believe, possible for anybody to follow.
TAKE A GOOD LOOK AT THIS PAGE A circle is a flat disk. If you draw the “inside” contours, it becomes a solid ball, with a third dimension. We shall build other forms, like lumps of clay, onto this solidity. The construction will be erased, but the solid appearance will remain, giving form or the appearance of reality.
HOW TO DRAW FUNNY FACES
Get a pencil and paper quickly! Draw lightly all you see printed in blue. Take one stage at a time, on one drawing, until the last stage; then finish, with strong lines over the light ones, the lines we have printed in black. That is all there is to learn! These are "selected’’ or "built in’’ from the basic forms. I call the basic drawings “Blooks,’’ after myself .
HERE WE GO!
I promised you that all you need to know, to start this book, is how to draw a lopsided ball. Whatever shape you draw can be used as a foundation for a funny face. Do the best you can, even if the ball looks more like a potato.
THE FUN STARTS!
The big idea is to start with a “form.” Then develop other “forms” on it. Build your final lines in by selecting, eliminating the lines you do not use. I leave mine in to show how it’s done.
A SURE METHOD FOR ANYBODY
IT’S REALLY GOING TO BE EASIER THAN YOU EXPECTED Now, if the first drawings you do are not the last word in cleverness, don’t be discouraged. You will soon get the idea. When you begin to sense form, you will have the whole works. Then we’ll polish up, and they will have to admit you are good.
THE “BLOOK BALL”
If you will now turn back to page 12 and look at the string of balls, you will see that we are getting right into big business. You need some practice on these. Never mind if they are a little off. The better you can draw these balls in any old position you wish, the better you are going to be. The line from the top to bottom is the “middle” line of the face. The horizontal line, which looks like the equator, is the “eyeline,” and it also locates the ear.
JUST PRACTICE ON THESE “BLOOKS”
THE BEST WAY TO GO ABOUT IT
WE ADD ANOTHER LINE TO THE BALL
Look at the diagram. This last line goes completely around the ball, thought the axis at each end, and cuts the eyeline just halfway round on each side of the middle line. The ear joins the head at the point of intersection of the eyeline and the earline.
THERE IS NO LIMIT TO THE VARIETY
I am a lot more anxious to have you understand the method and create your own forms than to copy mine. But copying mine now will get you started. Always construct the head from the cranium down. There is no other satisfactory way. You can see by now that the position of the ball determines the pose of the head. The pieces you build on determine the character.
“BLOCKY” TREATMENT LENDS CHARACTER
“Blocky” shapes always combine interestingly with round shapes. It is a good idea to make the final lines angular even around curves. It gives a sense of bone and ruggedness of character. You would not do this when drawing pretty girls or babies. Now I’ve got a surprise for you. Instead of drawing all there lunkheads, let’s try something real. I’m going to pose for you.
DIFFERENT EXPRESSIONS OF THE FACE
Try this on the folks. Tell them draw two overlapping circles, any size. Draw a middle line through both and build on your own pieces. You can make a head out of any combination. Of course, tell them to draw lightly.
Draw a circle. Attach two smaller circles, not far apart, anywhere. You can put a third above and between them. Then draw the middle line so it passes between the two small circles. Proceed as usual.
HERE’S A STUNT
Draw three balls, one of them small, in any position. Connect the larger balls. Draw a middle line under the small ball. This suggests a head. Now use your imagination to complete the drawing.
DON’T MISS THIS PAGE
Here we combine the ball with other basic forms. With “solid forms” to build on, the head begins to take on more reality. You can almost anything you want to with the supplementary forms, and come out all right. The is real character drawing, and a challenge to you.
This page is for the clever folks. It is a method of projecting the characters you have created into various poses. Try it with very simple heads at first. You must use your eye and build very carefully.
VARIETY BY DISTORTION
Take any head. You can distort it by the following methods. This is valuable in caricature. You can trace a photo, and draw from the tracing, or take any of your own drawings and distort them. Here again is a chance for your own invention. Draw a square around your subject. Divide each way into eight or more parts. If you wish to distort separate features, change the size of the squares into which they fall. Make the line cut through each square as it does in your copy, but changed to fit the new proportion of your squares. 1/2, 1/3 square, etc.
THE DIVIDED BALL AND PLANE METHOD
The Method Developed by Andrew Loomis, Which Makes Construction Simple for Any Type of Head. We go now into the most important section of the book. The method here worked out is a development of the simple groundwork you have already accomplished. It need not frighten you, since it is but slightly more complex than the work up to this point.
The cranium, as you perhaps have realized, is never a perfect ball in shape. To draw it correctly we must make alterations, some slight and others quite exaggerated, to fit the various types of skull. Nevertheless, we can take as a basic form a ball sliced off at the sides, leaving it a little wider one way than the other, and adding to it or taking some away. The forehead may be flattened, cut down, or built up as the case may be. The cranium may be elongated, widened, or narrowed. The facial plane may also be After this book was pubaltered as we see fit without destroying our working lished, I learned with interprinciple. The plane simply attaches to the ball est that a similar basic head form has been used for wherever we want it, which makes our method years by Miss E. Grace entirely flexible, so that we can represent any type Hanks of the Pratt Instiof head we choose. All other methods I have yet seen tute, Brooklyn, and that she do not start with a form anything like the skull, or has written a book based make any allowance for the variety of shapes.
THE DIVIDED BALL AND PLANE METHOD
THE DIVIDED BALL AND PLANE METHOD
It is this flexibility and freedom built into the method that should make it of certain value. On page 37 I have given a set of measurements I consider ideal, but these need not be adhered to. To me the real value of the method is that it makes possible the accurate construction of the head without copy or model or, when a model is used, that it allows you to render the type recognizably and with certainty. It possesses powers of exaggeration for comic drawing and caricature as well as of serious interpretation. It opens an avenue of approach to the novice, dispenses to a large extent with the necessity for tedious and prolonged study, and gives almost at the outset the much needed quality of solidity which usually comes only with a knowledge of bone and muscle structure.
If you glance at page 39, it will be evident how the ball and plane is designed to give that appearance of actual bony structure. The skull lies within this basic form. But over and above this in importance is the helpful guidance it gives in placing the features in their correct positions, in relation to the pose of the head. This will come very quickly, and soon the eye will detect anything obviously “out of drawing.”
Many years ago I sensed the lack of any method of approach having any marked degree of accuracy. I was told to draw the head as an egg or oval, and to proceed from there. Fine for a straight front view. But what of the jaw in a profile? There is
but a slight hint of the skull formation in an egg shape alone. Again, I was told to build the head starting with a cube. While this aided one in sensing the perspective, it gave no hint of the skull. How much of the cube was to be cut away? Since then I have heard of “shadow methods” and others, yet in every case a previous knowledge of the head was necessary.
THE DIVIDED BALL AND PLANE METHOD
THE DIVIDED BALL AND PLANE METHOD
What I wanted was a method whereby, if a head looked wrong, I could find out what was wrong with it, Tampering with a painted head to correct some bad construction or drawing usually ruined the work done. The necessity of starting the head correctly in the first place was obvious, so that the finishing could be approached with the confidence that after hours of work it would not go “sour.” With closing dates of publications imminent, it is risky business to proceed without a full knowledge of what you are doing. So this method evolved from personal necessity.
I might state here that in the beginning I had not the slightest intention of putting it in book form. However, when the plan did work itself out finally, I was struck with its simplicity. It was one of those instances that make you wonder why you or some- body else had not thought of it before. The fact that it tied up with our first childish scribbles, which after all are a crude statement of form unhampered by superficial detail, only increased my enthusiasm. Why, then, could not such a plan be made available to all, from the child scribbler to the profes- sional artist? The plan changes but slightly from the first round ball and added forms to the profes- sional piece of work, the difference lying in the ability of the individual.
It all hinges on the proper building of the ball and its divisions. Approached with the understanding that one is drawing solids instead of lines, the method becomes surprisingly simple. I do not doubt but that these few pages will prove of inestimable value to many practicing artists, who I know have been confronted with the same difficulties of bad drawing and closing dates. But primarily the book is for John Jones, who always wanted to draw but could not.
AS APPLIED TO DIFFERENT TYPES
SOME HEADS BASED ON PAGE 41
This page must give you some idea of the unlimited variety of types and characters possible through building by the Divided Ball and Plane method. There are thousands of types, and each looks different mostly because of the skull rather than the features. It’s fun to study an individual, and try to figure out what kind of ball and plane go together to make up his face. You really learn to look deep into character, and beneath the surface. This method calls for no clairvoyance, but a quick eye and a skillful hand.
COMIC HEADS BY THE DIVIDED BALL AND PLANE
The above are simple applications of the method. These are no more difficult than by the previous plan of attaching forms directly to the ball. However, the chance of error is greatly lessened. You might as well have the complete method as part of it. Time spent on these pages will prove of sound value to anyone sincerely interested in the drawing of the head. It is suggested that you go on with the book and come back to this section at intervals. As you try you will improve. By all means do not give up. That hand of yours will be doing surprising things before long.
THE PRETTY GIRL
A pleasing head of a girl depends ninetynine percent on how well you draw it. More exactly, the ball must be drawn well, the construction lines correctly placed on the ball and plane, and the features nicely placed. Remember there is the width of an eye between the eyes. Do not place the mouth too low or get the nose too long. I have used a pen here. Try it sometimes.
A METHOD OF CHECKING
The blue lines in the diagram above are our same construction lines. They may be done on tracing paper over any face. You can thus quickly find a feature that has been incorrectly placed. You can also “find” the ball and plane position in a photographic head this way. Whether you are building or tearing down, the method applies.
THE WOMEN FOLKS
THE OLD FOLKS
OH, BOY, OH, BOY! NOW THE FUN REALLY STARTS
PUTTING THE HEAD ON THE BODY
THE COMIC FIGURE
You know, I’ve a hunch you have been itching to get into this portion of the book. Well, it is really going to be great fun to create little people of your own, doing anything you want them to. There is nothing hidebound in this plan either. Take it in easy doses for the fun that’s in it. Whether the folks you draw will ever bring home the bacon is a matter of circumstance and how clever you get to be. But it’s worth the effort to get that bang out of being able to do it.
When you were a very little boy or girl your brain children probably looked like these. If they did, you had a great deal of undeveloped talent, and if you have not been drawing ever since, it’s a real shame. When the little youngster starts to draw, he instinctively does a better job than he does later on. He goes to essentials, a crude representation of the bulk without the detail. Soon he forgets the body and starts drawing buttons and clothes with a face on them.
Result: he gets discouraged and transfers his attention to some pretty blond curls or a new bicycle. In all seriousness, I say that Nos. 1 and 2 of the marginal drawings have great possibilities; 3 and 4 still have hope. But 5 verges on those awful draw- ings in public places.
Now we start with something very much like 1 and 2. For want of a better name we shall call him “Doohinkus.” All we need do is add some sort of box for a pelvis, some pads for hands and feet, some balls at the joints, and a straight line across for shoulders. We thus give him the following characteristics. Head is a ball. Chest is a ball. Pelvis is a box slanted out at back and in at the sides. The spine does not go through the chest ball but around the back of it. The legs are not straight but curve in to the knees and out toward the foot. Forearm is slightly curved. Chest ball is divided by a line through the middle and flaring lines at the bottom, like a Y upside down.
The reason for the curve on the bones is that they thus become “springy” and shockabsorbing. Without those curves we would be nervous wrecks before we were in short pants or panties as the case may be. Every limb is movable in practically all directions. The chest ball is fixed to the spine but the spine bends in all directions. It can also twist or turn, so that there is a wide range of movements possible between spine and pelvis.
The human body is just about the nicest bit of me- chanics we have in the world. We can walk, run, jump, climb, stand erect, sit, all without any oiling or burntout sparkplugs. Our motor starts and stops once. If we take care of the engine it will outlast any metal one. Let’s go!
HERE WE GO!
The proportions of your little figures may be varied in any sort of way. Below we show a variety of comic exaggerations.
WE START ON THE FIGURE
We shall start at once to put them into action. There will always be movement of the parts. Draw this page carefully and become thoroughly familiar with the movement of each part.
DOOHINKUS MOVES ABOUT. STUDY THE FRAMEWORK
PURPOSELY OFF BALANCE
DO SOME OF THESE
TRY THESE, THEN INVENT SOME OF YOUR
BUILDING ON THE FRAMEWORK
BUILDING ON THE FRAMEWORK
A WAY TO SET UP THE ACTION
Take any jointed doll if possible, one jointed at the waist. This fellow was a plain wooden art-store mannikin. In order to make him exist for you as something more than wooden chunks, I dolled him up, with paint, putty, and a bit of hair from the bathroom rug. Then I got busy with my candid camera. He is a queerlooking little guy, a sort of cross between Groucho Marx and a cigarstore Indian; but he is made of parts, and it is the appearance of these parts in action that we are interested in. In this way Doohinkus Mannikin is better than a live model. The black lines on him help you his bulk, just as they do on the ball.
Take some of these poses. Start by drawing the framework in the approximate action. It is not important that you maintain the same proportions, and you can substitute any head. Change him to suit yourself, but watch the positions of the parts carefully. Build on each part as you it. Note whether lines at joints curve up or down, how the part is tipped toward or away from you, you can exaggerate the action of the hips and shoulders, as those actions were quite limited in the mannikin. You can also, if you wish, render the light and shadow on the parts.
Tracing these, or copying without building, will do you no good. But if you will “build” a dozen or so, you will be able to set up figures of your own, in almost any action. The correct assembling of the parts of the figure is much more important than actual knowledge of the bones and muscles. You cannot put clothes on your figures properly without knowing the action of under the clothes, and the flexing and pulling of the material over them from one part to another. Pages 66 and 67 will show how to go about it.
DOOHINKUS MANNIKIN SHOWS YOU THE PARTS IN ACTION
BUILD FIGURES FROM THESE START WITH THE FRAMEWORK
AFTER DRAWING THESE, TRY SOME OF YOUR
HOW YOU USE THE DOOHINKUS POSES
Here is the way to go about the preceding poses. I have chosen figure No. 8 at random. First, it is a good idea to know what the normal figure is like. You needn’t draw this unless you are interested. The bottom figures illustrate how the exaggerated is based on the normal.
JUST PLAY WITH THE FIGURES
The main idea is to enjoy yourself. Some day you may just put clothes right over the framework. But it is better always to sketch in the figure. Do not follow the photos literally. Do a lot of inventing, I wish I had more space here, but perhaps these will give you a working basis.
HOW TO DRAW A HAT CORRECTLY
NOW WE BUILD THE FIGURE AND PUT ON SOME CLOTHES
EXPERIMENT ON FELIX THE ICE
NOW HAVE SOME FUN
TRY TO WORK OUT THE CONSTRUCTION YOURSELF
EXPERIMENT WITH THESE
I’M PUTTING YOU ON YOUR OWN
THESE OUGHT TO BE INTERESTING
BUILD THEM UP; DON’T JUST COPY
NOW LET’S MIX UP THE RACES
YOU CAN DRAW THEM ALL BY OUR METHODS
DOWN ON THE FARM
WHEN YOU AND I WERE YOUNG, MAGGIE
JUST NATURALLY ATHLETIC
AND MORE VAMPS
Unless one has a sound method of building, foreshortening is very difficult. In the figure at the right, the parts resemble the Doohinkus photos. If you think of the figure as sections fitted together, foreshortening takes fully as we built the head in Part One. Think of solids Below, we obtain foreshortening by projecting a profile into a front view, or the reverse, as we did with the head.
Establish the desired tilt and position of the parts, then by parallel lines build the other position of the figure so that all important points coincide. When the figure is close, increase the parts that are closest and diminish the parts that are away from you. I did not do this, fearing it might confuse you. I personally prefer the method at the top, using the eye, but often a difficult problem can be worked out easily this way, and it is well to know how.
THUS ENDETH PART TWO
Here’s Gas House Nellie back with us, and what a wallop! She’s here to show you there’s no foolin’ about those little Doohinkuses, You can get more real stuff into your figures in two minutes this way than in two days of trying to horse around with the finished drawing that has not been planned out. If Nellie isn’t really slamming this guy, I’m a Chinaman. I can almost hear it.
NOW THAT I’VE GOT ALL OF YOU, WHAT TO DO!
A WORLD FOR YOUR FIGURES TO LIVE IN
HOW TO ESTABLISH FIGURES ON THE GROUND
PERSPECTIVE IN THE FIGURE
HOW TO PROJECT FURNITURE ONTO THE GROUND PLANE
Here is an excellent method for building furniture and figures on a ground plane. It
BUILDING AN INTERIOR FROM A GROUND PLAN-I
BUILDING AN INTERIOR FROM A GROUND PLAN-II
BUILDING AN INTERIOR FROM A GROUND PLAN-III
BUILDING AN INTERIOR FROM A GROUND PLAN-IV
And here is the finished drawing. It’s fun to try inking in some of your pencil drawings. Get a bottle of waterproof black drawing ink. You can get a box of school water colors, also, and get still more fun out of it. Knowing just what is the correct perspective helps so much to give that solid, finished, and professional look. This procedure opens up a whole world for the little figures you have learned to draw. It is worth while to see what you can do with this method. It offers a possibility of setting some work, besides the thrill of doing it. Now we shall take up a new subject.
LIGHT AND SHADOW: THE PRINCIPLE
Rays of light travel in straight lines. From any spot, the middle ray, the “perpendicular to source,” would meet the earth and pass through its center. At the point directly under the source we establish the point DL, meaning “direction of light.” S will mean “source” at the top of the perpendicular, From the farthest limit of the shadow to DL, then up to the source and back to the shadow, forms a triangle. The third corner of the triangle will be called At, meaning “angle of light.” DL may be the vanishing point of the shadow or the base from which it proceeds outward.
A SIMPLIFIED METHOD FOR GROUND SHADOWS
THE LAST HILL
I have a chosen a problem here that would be very difficult without some under- standing of the fundamentals given in Part Three. By the use of perspective, together with the effect of light and shadow, we create the illusion of space, form, and a quality of existence.
This drawing may have the “feel” of having been sketched from life, because of the fundamental principles applied to it. However, it was done from the imagination, without any copy, simply to show you the possibilities.
It is a great storehouse of material. By all means, draw from that great source. Do not just copy. “Build” with what you observe for yourself to be true. Try to get the individual quality of each thing you draw. It is that quality that makes the artist interesting.
TIME’S UP, FOLKS. WE GOTTA GO. ‘BY. THE AUTHOR’S CORNER
I guess all you folks will forgive me for reserving a tiny corner of the book as my own. Everything must eventually come to an end, and so with this book, my first effort of this kind. It has been a concentrated effort. At times I have seen the daylight fade and come back again without sleep. I’ll never tell anybody the actual time it took me to make these (it seems) thousands of drawings. I’m sure he would not believe me.
I’m dreadfully tired but immensely happy. It has been intensely interesting, for I have retraced the ground of years ago. It has carried me back to the first struggle for knowledge that might earn me a living. It has reminded me of the early drawings which so often came back. How simple it all might have been, had I in the beginning been able to assemble these working principles, put them in order, and work with them as I do now. But they were bits of knowledge plucked out of the air like bits of fluff from a seed pod. Only a few within your grasp, just a few to take root and flourish. Strangely, the simplest facts always are the latest in being understood. And when they are. Their utter simplicity is the best reason for their acceptance, even at the cost of having to sweep out the pet theories and ideas accumulated over half a lifetime.
At best, how do I know that I’m any more right now than in my student days? The answer is that of the con- valescent who has suffered and got well again. Lack of knowledge can be greater torture than the effort of acquiring it. I know only that I am happier in my work than I was then. It has gained publication in places that once seemed hopeless for me. I can approach the work with peace of mind and confidence boon of experience. This book is an effort to transplant that peace of mind to some few thousand others who otherwise must fall victims to the selfsame devices which contrive to make before they can make even a meager start.
WHEN ALL IS SAID AND DONE, NATURE IS YOUR BEST INSTRUCTOR
LEARN TO DRAW FROM LIFE
I can think of no field of endeavor so sadly lacking in simple organization of its working principles. Nothing quite so haphazard, hit-or-miss, as the whole field of artistic endeavor. I am not a cartoonist, but I choose caricature for the beginner: principally because there is fun in it, and from the start I want him to feel a little of the creative joy he is entitled to.
When artists begin to compile and set down their combined experience, give freely and humbly what little they can add, as do the other sciences, then art may have some chance to reestablish itself in the hearts of everyday people even against the mechanical perfection of the camera; even in a period of social adjustment and financial depression. The mental depression of our era weighs heavier on our race and future than do our dollars or lack of them. A little joy from the inside must be welcome to almost anybody. Perhaps my book is a step in that direction.
Yes, folks, I’m tired, but I’m happy. My little job, feeble as it may be, is done. I wait as breathlessly to see how you will like it as 1 ever waited for the verdict of any art editor or director. I’d give many more sleepless hours just to feel with you that first thrill of having created even if it be mere lines of a pencil. You’ll get to love those little folks you draw, even if they are a bit unwieldy and only a little bit human.